Out of Town Blog

Biting into Tradition: Discovering the Empanada de Kaliskis at Emma Lacson’s

The Story of Empanada de Kaliskis at Emma Lacson’s Delicacies

In the charming heritage streets of Silay City, Negros Occidental — often affectionately called the Paris of Negros for its majestic ancestral homes and deep cultural heritage — food is regarded as an art form. Time-honored recipes are preserved with the same passion and dedication as the historic buildings themselves: lovingly restored, stubbornly maintained, and proudly celebrated as part of the city’s rich legacy.

Among all the sweets, biscuits, and heirloom dishes that adorn Silay’s rich culinary heritage, one delicacy stands out—not for its extravagance, but for its modest, unassuming nature. Locals don’t simply consume it; they see a reflection of themselves in it and cherish its humble simplicity.

Why is it called Kaliskis?

“Kaliskis” means “fish scales” in Filipino. The name draws inspiration from the pastry’s crust, which is crafted from multiple thin layers of dough that are carefully folded and layered repeatedly.

When fried, these layers curl and crack, forming a delicate, flaky shell that resembles shimmering fish scales, creating a visually appealing and texturally distinctive exterior.

The moment you sink your teeth into one, it yields with a tender crack — not a loud crunch, but a delicate, satisfying break reminiscent of stepping on freshly fallen, brittle leaves in autumn.

Inside, a warm, savory filling unfolds—a rich blend of seasoned meat, vegetables, or cheese, aromatic and inviting, releasing a comforting aroma with every bite.

This enticing contrast between the fragile shell and the luscious interior embodies the very essence of the empanada, making it a truly delightful treat.

The Empanada Story

In the early 1920s, a woman named Emma Lacson started baking empanadas in her home kitchen in the charming town of Silay. What initially was a simple family recipe soon caught the attention of neighbors, sparking a growing demand for her delicious pastries. As the popularity of her empanadas increased, Emma transformed her home cooking into a small, thriving family business.

By 1925, she had established Emma Lacson’s Delicacies, a renowned establishment that still operates today within Silay’s historic heritage district, preserving a tradition of artisanal baking passed down through generations.

Later, her daughter took over the kitchen operations, meticulously maintaining the original methods of preparation without introducing modern shortcuts or alterations. This deliberate decision to preserve the traditional process—sticking faithfully to the original techniques—ultimately contributed to its iconic status, highlighting the enduring value of authentic craftsmanship.

Why It Became a Signature of Silay

Long before food tourism became fashionable, the city of Silay in Negros Occidental already had a pastry people traveled for — Emma Lacson’s empanada de kaliskis. While flaky empanadas exist in Bulacan and Pampanga, Lacson’s interpretation developed a personality inseparable from Silay’s heritage.

The difference lay not only in the technique but in the context. Silay was once a sugar baron town, filled with ancestral houses, formal gatherings, and afternoon merienda culture. Emma Lacson refined the pastry to suit that lifestyle: ultra-delicate layers resembling fish scales (“kaliskis”), a faint sweetness from local sugar, and a rich chicken filling balanced rather than heavy. It became the perfect companion to tsokolate, conversation, and slow afternoons in heritage homes.

Over the decades, visitors arriving to see Silay’s mansions were inevitably served the same pastry. Tourism, memory, and hospitality fused. The empanada stopped being merely a snack and became a ritual welcome.

Bulacan and Pampanga may have similar pastries, but Silay turned its version into a cultural experience — not just something to eat, but something to remember as part of the city’s elegant past.

The Taste Experience

During the Kaon Ta food tour – a culinary-centric event hosted by the City of Silay – we visited the house of Emma Lacson. After entering through a green gate, we hiked about 20 steps to the kitchen, where all the magic happens. That is where they prepare the filling and the kaliskis dough, and where they fry them to perfection.

After carefully observing the process, we sampled their freshly fried, still steaming, and irresistibly crispy pork and chicken empanadas, noting their vibrant golden-brown crust and inviting aroma.

Emma Lacson’s empanada de kaliskis in Silay is first remembered for its texture. The crust is incredibly fragile — paper-thin layers stacked into delicate flakes that shatter softly at the first bite. Instead of oily heaviness, the pastry feels light and crisp, almost airy, leaving a gentle buttery aroma rather than grease on the palate.

Inside, the classic chicken filling is finely shredded and mildly seasoned, savory but restrained. There is a faint sweetness coming from the Negros sugar blended into the dough, creating a balance typical of Negrense cooking: rich yet elegant, flavorful yet subtle. Nothing overwhelms; everything melts together.

Over time, several varieties appeared. The traditional chicken empanada remains the most iconic. There is also pork, which is a favorite for any occasion. Despite different fillings, the identity stays in the crust — fragile layers that dissolve almost instantly, making every bite refined rather than filling.

Visiting Emma Lacson’s Delicacies

Location:

Rizal Street, Heritage Zone, Silay City (across the BPI Silay branch)

Facebook Page: /emmalacsonsdelicacies

Contact numbers: (034)495-5047 / 09227480088

How to Get There

From Bacolod City (about 20–30 minutes):

1. Ride a northbound jeep or bus to Silay
2. Drop off at Silay public plaza/heritage district
3. Walk along Rizal Street — the ancestral houses will guide you
4. Look for the modest house-style shop, not a modern café

Tip:

If you see tourists holding white pastry boxes, you’re close.

More Than Food

The Empanada de Kaliskis of Silay isn’t renowned for being rare, but for having steadfastly resisted change. In the Philippines, where traditional recipes often evolve over time, this empanada has remained unchanged for nearly a century.

Crafted by hand, each empanada features delicate, layered dough that is meticulously prepared, then fried to golden perfection. The warm, flaky exterior gives way to a savory filling that combines local spices and ingredients, offering a taste of heritage with every bite.

In Silay, cultural preservation extends beyond architecture and artifacts—it’s also embedded in culinary traditions. This empanada embodies that spirit, a living testament to culinary history. Its consistency and age-old recipe symbolize a commitment to tradition, demonstrating that sometimes, heritage isn’t just kept alive in museums or old buildings but also in the simple, heartfelt craft of making dough—where history is kneaded into every layer.

Follow and subscribe to OutofTownBlog.com  on  Facebook,  Twitter,  Instagram, Pinterest, and YouTube  for more Travel-related updates.

Read:

• Top 10 Best Things to do in Silay City + Tourist Spots
• BACOLOD TRAVEL GUIDE

Biting into Tradition: Discovering the Empanada de Kaliskis at Emma Lacson’s

Melo Villareal

Out of Town Blog

The post Biting into Tradition: Discovering the Empanada de Kaliskis at Emma Lacson’s appeared first on Out of Town Blog